Tampilkan postingan dengan label talking fashion. Tampilkan semua postingan
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Rabu, 21 April 2010

Talking Fashion and Sustainability with Greta Eagan

Original artwork by Ray Chang

I was lucky enough to have the opportunity to speak with Greta Eagan, a trendsetting fashionista with a conscience and expert on sustainable fashion about the impact fashion has on the environment and how to be stylishly sustainable



When did you start Greta Guide and how did you get started as a blogger? What other projects are you involved in?

I started Greta Guide in December 2008. Basically, I knew that I wanted to write a book and a friend of mine suggested that I start a blog to build an audience and find my voice. A few months later,  I was fortunate enough to be asked to participate in a fashion bloggers conference for a site called Weardrobe. That is when I picked up more of a fashion focus and began carving out my niche.

I continue to go to fashion blogging conferences such as Chictopia and IFB, as well as sustainable fashion conferences like The Key.To in Berlin.

I suppose you could label me as a social media savvy sustainable fashion blogger and strategist- wow, that title keeps getting longer! I spent last summer as an active member of the web team at Tory Burch, guest tweeted for Ford Models for a couple of months and now am headed to Aspen Fashion Week to relay the great things they have going on there in a digital space.

I am also a trend columnist for the site Eco Salon, and find myself writing across different blogs and sites with the message of sustainable fashion, as well as speaking on the subject- which really excites me.


How did you first become interested in sustainable fashion?

It was really an evolved process. First, I started paying more attention to what I ate and what I was putting directly into my body. I began to eat locally and organically. That directly transferred over to what I was putting on my body and thus absorbing. Skin is the largest organism and it makes sense that all those lotions and potions you put on your skin are going to wind up in your blood stream being circulated around. So, I read the book “Toxic Beauty” by Dr. Epstien and tossed out all my old products for non-toxic paraben-free ones. Fashion and apparel came next. All of those strong beliefs and ideals I was subscribing to for my food and beauty intake carried over to my participation in fashion.


It seems as though the words ethical, eco, environmentally-friendly and sustainable are used interchangeably to describe different kinds of clothing- are they all the same? Can you give a short breakdown of what these labels mean?

Well, for me they are all the same because I look to see that a brand hits one of my core issues and something that I subscribe to. It maybe ethical sourcing, fair trade or it may be using natural fiber and sourcing it organically. So as long as a company hits one of those marks, it’s like “green light” and I feel okay about purchasing their product. There probably need to be standards that are developed across the board so that people can really know what they’re purchasing, but I also think that there needs to be room for people to explore what sustainable fashion means to them. It shouldn’t be something that is so unattainable and difficult to try and engage in.
So in my terms, if it's ethical it will traditionally have been made in a place with a fair wage and better working conditions, and then eco typically corresponds to the actual fibers and whether they’re natural, such as organic cotton or bamboo. They’re all interchangeable in a way, but for me sustainable fashion means that it’s more of a cradle-to-cradle effect; where it’s coming from, where it’s going to afterwards, and the length of the garment lifecycle.


How is fashion negatively impacting the environment right now?

The largest official influence of fashion on the environment is it’s the largest contributor of CO2 emissions. Three- quarters of the world’s CO2 emissions are due to the use phase of clothing which correlates to the washing and drying and the care of your clothing.


Because apparel is a business driven by trends and consumerism, is the phrase ‘sustainable fashion’ somewhat of an oxymoron? Can trends and sustainable fashion co-exist?

Yes and no, and this is just my personal opinion: there will be two routes. Before we started talking about sustainable fashion, back before it was something to talk about, I used to read about investing in what you love and having a list of classic things that I wanted to buy. I’m sure a number of women would have a Chanel or an Hermes bag on that list, and maybe a Balenciaga blazer. The craftsmanship that goes into the quality of those type of pieces also means a higher price tag, but we buy them knowing that we will have them for a long time and they may even be passed down. So that was never called sustainable fashion, it was just to invest in what you love, and that’s where I think slow fashion comes in, because you have to take the time to produce the quality and the craftsmanship so that something does have a really long life or many lives.
The second part is that I’m a human being, I like change, and just like I don’t like to eat the same thing everyday, I like to change what I wear and what color lipstick I put on and that sort of thing. So, I think that it’s not just about buying things that last and not buying as much, although that’s a huge part, but it’s also about finding a new system that can support what we want, but do it without hurting the environment. We just really we just need to re-think the way we’re doing things and it doesn’t mean that the fashion supply chain has to stop, it’s just that it has to change.


Do you ever feel any kind of inner conflict between your interests in both fashion and living a more sustainable lifestyle?

Well, certainly fashion is about creativity and it should be an expression of self. We choose what we wear and that changes as we change and as trends come in, and it’s fun to explore and to try them. The good news is that a lot of eco designers are good designers and there are more and more of them coming up all the time. So let’s say something is a trend that you want to wear, you might say that you’re not going to be part of it unless you can find an ethical and eco-friendly version of that product- that crossover is becoming less and less difficult. I take the time if I see something to find the green version and I have noticed that it’s becoming a lot easier.


What is one simple thing that everyone can start doing today to be more conscious when it comes to clothing?

Going back to that statistic about the use phase of clothing being the largest contributor of CO2 emissions, I would say it’s a lifestyle switch: if you can decide that as an American, and we’re really hyper-sensitive about being really hygienic, that we don’t need to wash our clothing or dry-clean it as often as we do, not repeating that energy intensive process as often would use less water and have a positive impact. I would say if that there was just one thing, that is the one thing you can start doing right now. It doesn’t mean that you are purchasing or not purchasing anything, it just means not washing what you have as much, and taking care of your clothing.
We’ve lost that idea of when garments were scarce. Back in the days before the Industrial Revolution, before sewing machines, making clothing was so intensive that they would pass that clothing down from generation to generation and just take care of it. I don’t want to stifle anyone or say that we shouldn’t celebrate fashion, because I think fashion is a fabulous means of expressing creativity and identity, and it’s also innovative. It’s just that we have to re-think the way we do things: clothing doesn’t have to be washed as much.

Senin, 10 Agustus 2009

Talking Fashion and Technology with Agnieszka Kij: Links a la Mode

Portrait of Agnieszka Kij by Ray Chang


Agnieszka Kij of Net-a-Porter spoke to Style Gourmand about Net-a-Porter's new iPhone app, and about where fashion and technology meet.


A couple weeks ago Natalie Massenet, NAP founder, and designer Roland Mouret appeared at the Apple store in London to discuss fashion and technology. Although fashion and technology seem like two disparate areas, they both attract creative passionate people, just with very different ways of expressing their ideas: how much do you think fashion is influencing technology and vice versa?

The brilliant thing is that no matter where you live, technology enables you to see, interact and get inspired by fashion. More and more designers are realising this and are looking to see how they can harness technology to deliver something new. I love designers who constantly push boundaries (Hussein Chalayan is a great example), but it’s no longer just about creating a beautiful product, it’s also about how creative you can be in getting it to your customer. I think the dialogue between fashion and technology is only just beginning and that we will continue to be surprised by the results.

So Natalie and Roland were also discussing the new Net-a-Porter shopping app that launched this week. Can you tell us a little bit about it? What kinds of features does it have and how is it different from other fashion apps?

It’s the first app where you can actually purchase the latest fashion via a streamlined purchase path. Most apps take you out of the APP and into a separate browser to make a payment. With the NET-APP, you stay within the application throughout the entire payment process. I also am particularly proud of the level of product details we provide for all the ‘what’s new products.’ There are 5 images per product all taken from different angles and zoom functionality so that our customers can see everything from the fabric texture to the smallest stitch! This means you can really shop and access luxury fashion wherever you are – last week I was sitting on the beach in California browsing NET-A-PORTER’s ‘what’s new’ section and magazine - what else does a girl need?

Since your work requires you to be both a techie and a fashionista at the same time, who in the worlds of fashion and technology do you find most inspiring?

There are many people I find inspiring in technology such as Larry Page, Sergey Brin and Steve Jobs but I find I am mostly inspired by the people I work with at NET-A-PORTER. There is nothing more exciting than coming up with an idea, then speaking about it with my colleagues, fine-tuning it and then working on delivering it. Fashion inspirations are harder to pinpoint. Living in London and working in fashion company I constantly see brilliant things. I can be inspired by anything from a teenager crossing the street in east London to a model coming into our offices for a casting.

How did you get into the fashion industry?

It was actually quite by accident. I came to London from Poland about 5 years ago and applied for a job at NET-A-PORTER…and instantly fell in love!

Have you always had an interest in fashion or is it just an occupational hazard?

I have always had interest in design and aesthetics and fashion definitely falls within these categories.

Your hands-down favorite items in your closet:

I have 3 - a stripy white and navy blue top which goes with everything, some Eley Kishimoto ballerinas and I always have a pair of classic white Converse in my closet.

The coolest thing you've seen lately:

I went on a road trip across the US recently and fell in love with old American cars all over again…but then I saw the old cruise bikes in New Orleans and think they are even cooler!

Complete the sentence: You're always naked without comfortable shoes

What one gadget can you not live without?

iPhone, iPhone, iPhone

What new gadget have we never heard of, but in the future won't be able to live without?

3D technology – imagine 3D touch screens computer where you can design a chair for example and then instantly print it on your 3D printer.

Senin, 23 Februari 2009

Talking Art and Fashion with Ray Chang: Links a la Mode

Watercolor by Ray Chang
Ray Chang is Art Director at Oscar de la Renta. His blog fancygreysuit, serves as an outlet for his artistic talent and philosophical musings. Style Gourmand spoke with him about his thoughts on art, fashion and life.




I always think of fashion as a fine balance between art and business, one can't survive very long in the fashion without mastering both: As an art-minded person do you see think art still exists in fashion, or is it just strictly business?
I think that it’s more of trying to inject a little bit of art into business. But it’s mainly business. In these times, who can afford not to think that way? You’ll always have brands who push the boundaries of ‘commerce’ like Comme des Garcons, which is refreshing.


Have you always had an interest in fashion or is it just an occupational hazard?
I’ve always had an interest in the pictures, much less on the clothes. My favorite book of Marilyn photographs by Bert Stern, Herb Ritts, Richard Avedon, those pictures really invoked something within me. That’s why I got into art direction, not fashion design (which I’d probably be terrible at anyway). The fashion industry to me is just a form in which I can tell stories.


How did you get into the fashion industry?
I got into the fashion industry by happenstance. My first job out of art school was to work on the Dockers account in San Francisco. I was hired by this really talented art director named Robert Lussier who now works in Paris on Dior. After that, we both went to New York, and I’ve had the pleasure on working on brands such as Gap, John Varvatos, Henri Bendel, Levi’s, Ann Taylor, K-Swiss and now, Oscar de la Renta.

What was the biggest difference you noticed in dress when you moved to nyc from the west coast?
More coats. You have to be a little more buttoned up here in New York. People won’t take you seriously otherwise. When I go back to LA though, it’s back to the white t shirt, shorts and a clean white pair of Vans.

Even though you didn't intend to have a career in fashion, you definitely have a distinct sense of personal style- how would you describe it?
Do I? (laughing). As I’ve gotten older (age withheld), it’s easier just to wear the basics. There are some pieces, or looks that have withstood the test of time, and everyone looks good in them. Simple. Except my socks. I like colored socks.

What's so great about American fashion?
American fashion is great because, like America, it’s so diverse. You have people of all cultures, and even things that are inherently American, have roots in England. Because of this, our fashion has no boundaries.

Tell me about fancygreysuit, especially the significance of the name to you.
fancygreysuit is a site where I put up all the random thoughts in my head and my drawings. They’re quick visual journals into things I’m thinking about, love, or comments on the world. I like things that look a bit innocent, where they’re seen with a bit of wonder, but hopefully, have a little bit of depth to them. When you’re young, you always have that one thing that you wish you had, whether it be a suit, or for a woman, a beautiful dress. And when you put it on, you’re more alive somehow.. And everyone should have a fancy grey suit. I’m still looking for mine.

Do you think all the constant buzz about what Michelle Obama will make people more aware of how they look and maybe have a positive impact on how women in America dress?
I think it will be not so much about her per se, but them together. You have a magical first couple that brings us back to the days of Camelot. And that has an aspirational effect on how we not only perceive them and America, but ourselves.

Complete the sentence: everyone looks good in _somebody’s arms.

Who would be your celebrity muse?
Marcello Mastroianni.


Since you started your career outside the fashion industry, do you still consider yourself a fashion outsider or are you now an insider?
Always on the outside looking in, but happy that it is the way it is. Don’t get too close to the fire!


- Style Gourmand